Four pearls, four different animals, four different answers. Here is how to choose.

Almost every fine pearl on earth is one of four types. They are not grades of the same thing — they come from different mollusks in different water on different timescales, and the differences are real.

The comparison, first

Freshwater — the value tier, and no longer a compromise

Grown in mussels rather than saltwater oysters, primarily in China. A single mussel can be implanted in many places at once and produce a couple of dozen pearls per cycle, against one pearl per saltwater oyster — which is the entire explanation for the price.

Most freshwater pearls are tissue-nucleated: there is no bead at the center, so the pearl is nacre nearly all the way through. That makes them durable and gives them a particular soft inner glow.

The quality has changed enormously. Twenty-five years ago freshwater pearls were mostly rice-shaped; today the better farms produce genuinely round pearls with luster that competes directly with Akoya.

Best for: a first pearl, everyday wear, bridesmaids, and anyone who wants natural peach or lavender — colors Akoya does not offer.

Akoya — the classic

Grown in a small oyster in the sheltered bays of Japan, bead-nucleated, roughly a year to eighteen months in the water.

Akoya has the sharpest luster of any pearl: a hard, almost mirror-like reflection with a defined edge. The reason is the cold winter water of the final months — cold slows the oyster, and nacre laid down slowly is deposited in finer, tighter layers.

Akoya is what most people picture when they think of a pearl necklace, and the shapes are consistently round, which makes strands easier to match.

Best for: the classic strand, bridal, and stud earrings. More on its color in the overtones of Akoya pearls.

Tahitian — the only naturally dark pearl

Grown in the black-lipped oyster across the lagoons of French Polynesia, about two years in the water.

The color is natural and never dyed — the pearl takes it from the same material the oyster uses to line its own shell. Body colors run gray, silver, green, and aubergine, with overtones of pink, blue, and purple playing over them. Peacock, a dark green body with pink and purple overtone, is the most sought after.

Despite the nickname, Tahitian pearls are almost never actually black. A uniformly jet-black strand at a low price is dyed freshwater, not Tahitian.

Best for: someone who already owns white pearls, evening wear, men's jewelry, and anyone who wants a pearl nobody else at the table is wearing. See the journey of a Tahitian pearl.

South Sea — the largest, and the slowest

Grown in Pinctada maxima, the largest pearl oyster in the world — the silver-lipped variety in Australia producing white and silver pearls, the gold-lipped variety in Indonesia and the Philippines producing golden ones.

About two years in the water, which produces the thickest nacre of any cultured pearl. That thickness is why South Sea glows with a soft satin light rather than a hard shine: light travels deeper into the pearl before it comes back out.

It has the smallest production volume of the major types, and Australian farming operates under strict quota.

Best for: scale and presence, and the piece at the top of a collection.

Choosing, practically

1. Judge luster before anything else. It is the factor that makes a pearl look expensive or cheap, and it is visible from across a room. A high-luster 7mm outperforms a chalky 9mm every time.
2. Match the color to the skin. Cool or pink-toned skin suits rose and silver overtones; warm or golden skin suits cream. Hold the strand against the inside of the wrist in daylight.
3. Buy the size that will be worn. 7mm studs get worn constantly. 11mm studs get worn to weddings.
4. Check the construction. Hand-knotted on silk between every pearl, and a solid gold clasp. Non-negotiable at any price.

How to read a quality claim properly is in what AAA pearl grading actually means, and the natural-versus-cultured question in are cultured pearls real.

How we choose

We buy direct from the farms and have done for four decades — among the first direct importers of both Akoya and freshwater pearl to major North American retailers, now in our third generation.

Buying at the farm means seeing a harvest before it is sorted for export, and choosing rather than accepting. It is also the only way to know with certainty what you are selling: which type, which region, treated or untreated.

Every pearl is selected by hand for luster, surface, and overtone, and every strand is hand-knotted and finished with a solid 14K gold clasp at our New York atelier. Restringing and inspection are complimentary with our annual service.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between freshwater, Akoya, Tahitian, and South Sea pearls?

They come from different mollusks in different waters. Freshwater pearls grow in mussels and offer the best value. Akoya pearls grow in small saltwater oysters in Japan and have the sharpest luster. Tahitian pearls are naturally dark. South Sea pearls are the largest, with a soft satin glow.

Which type of pearl is the best value?

Freshwater. A single mussel can produce many pearls in one growing cycle, which keeps prices lower, and most freshwater pearls are nacre nearly all the way through. The best modern freshwater pearls compete closely with Akoya in appearance.

Which pearl has the most luster?

Akoya. The final months of cultivation in cold Japanese water slow the oyster's growth, producing fine, tightly packed layers of nacre and a sharp, mirror-like reflection.

Are Tahitian pearls dyed?

Genuine Tahitian pearls are not. Their dark color comes naturally from the black-lipped oyster. Uniformly jet-black pearls sold at very low prices are usually dyed freshwater pearls rather than Tahitian.

Browse pearl jewelry, earrings, necklaces, and rings — or read how to care for pearls. Questions about a particular piece: sales@isaacwestman.com or 1-347-389-0766.

Enchanting. Intriguing. Refined.

ISAAC WESTMAN® · New York · Founded 1982