There is no rule. There is only understanding where the money goes, so you can decide what to spend it on.

The "two months' salary" line was an advertising slogan, not a standard. It has produced more anxiety than it has bought anyone happiness, and it is worth discarding before you start.

What engagement rings actually cost

Most couples spend somewhere in the low-to-mid four figures. Plenty spend less. Plenty spend considerably more.

Our own range, so you have a concrete anchor:

The spread is almost entirely the center stone. Two rings with identical settings can differ by five figures based on the diamond alone.

Where the money goes

The center stone — the majority of the price

Carat weight drives cost more than anything else, and not linearly. A 1.00 carat diamond costs noticeably more than two 0.50 carat diamonds of the same quality, because large rough is rarer. Prices also jump at the round numbers — 1.00, 1.50, 2.00 — which is why a 0.95 carat stone can be meaningfully cheaper than a 1.00 and look identical on the hand.

Clarity and color matter, but with diminishing returns. Our house standard is VS2 clarity or better and H–I color or better, because that is the point where inclusions are invisible without magnification and the stone still reads white. Paying for VVS1 and D color buys you a certificate, not a visibly better ring.

The setting

A plain solitaire band uses little metal and no side stones. A three-stone or halo design adds matched diamonds that must be hand-selected to sit correctly against the center — which is why our halo and three-stone designs start higher than the plain solitaire.

What each setting actually does to the stone is covered in engagement ring settings explained.

The metal

Platinum costs more than 14K gold, both in raw material and in labor — it is denser and harder to work. 18K gold sits between them. Our engagement rings are available in 14K gold, 18K gold, and platinum, in yellow and white. See 14K vs 18K gold vs platinum.

Where to spend, and where not to

Spend on cut. Cut quality determines how a diamond returns light. It is the one factor that visibly changes how the stone looks across a room. A well-cut 0.90 carat outperforms a poorly-cut 1.10 every time.

Consider going just under a round number. A 0.95 or 1.45 carat stone can save you meaningfully with no visible difference.

Don't overpay for clarity you cannot see. If an inclusion is invisible at arm's length, you are buying a grade on paper.

Do insist on certification above one carat. Every center stone we set at 1.00 carat and above carries GIA or IGI certification. Below that, an in-house grade from a jeweler you trust is reasonable. Above it, get the paper.

The grades themselves are explained in the 4Cs of diamonds. If you are weighing lab-grown, read lab-grown vs. natural diamonds first — particularly the section on resale.

Why direct sourcing changes the math

Most retail jewelers buy finished rings from a manufacturer, who bought the stone from a dealer, who bought it from a cutter. Each layer adds margin.

We spent four decades manufacturing for other names before putting our own on the clasp. We buy diamonds through cutters in the major diamond centers and set them at our New York atelier. Fewer hands, less markup, and the same people grade the stone and build the ring.

A practical approach

1. Decide what you are comfortable spending. Ignore the salary rules.
2. Choose the shape first — it is the most personal decision and it affects price.
3. Set a clarity and color floor (we suggest VS2 / H–I) and stop paying above it.
4. Put the remaining budget into carat and cut.
5. Get certification on anything over a carat.

Our engagement rings are custom crafted and ship in two to three weeks, in ring sizes 3.5 through 8.5. If you want to talk it through before deciding, reach us at sales@isaacwestman.com or 1-347-389-0766.

Browse engagement rings and the bridal collection.

Heirlooms in the making.

ISAAC WESTMAN® · New York · Founded 1982