The decision most people spend the least time on, and then live with every single day.

Metal determines how a piece wears, how often it needs servicing, and what it looks like in ten years. Here is what actually separates the three, without the marketing.

The three, side by side

14K vs 18K gold

Pure gold is 24 karat and far too soft for jewelry. It gets alloyed with other metals for strength.

14K is 58.3% gold. The higher alloy content makes it harder and more scratch-resistant. It is the sensible choice for rings worn daily, bracelets that take knocks, and anything on a working hand.

18K is 75% gold. More gold means a deeper, warmer yellow and a slightly heavier feel — and a softer metal that marks more easily. It suits earrings, pendants, and pieces that are not in constant contact with surfaces.

Expect to pay a meaningful premium for 18K in the same design — you are buying more gold.

White gold vs platinum

This is the comparison that trips people up, because they look nearly identical when new.

White gold is yellow gold alloyed white, then rhodium plated. That plating is what gives it the bright, cool finish. It wears off — typically every one to three years depending on wear — and needs re-plating to look new. It is a routine, inexpensive service, but it is a recurring one.

Platinum is naturally white all the way through. It never needs plating. It does not fade to yellow. It is denser and noticeably heavier in the hand.

Platinum does scratch — but differently. Gold loses metal when scratched; platinum displaces it, developing a soft matte finish called a patina. Some people prefer it. It can be polished back at any time.

Platinum typically costs considerably more than white gold for the same piece — both the raw metal and the labor to work it.

Rose gold

Rose gold is gold alloyed with copper. The copper makes it warm-toned and, as it happens, slightly harder than yellow gold of the same karat. It does not need plating. 14K rose is more durable and more pink than 18K, which reads softer.

Which to choose, by piece

• Engagement ring, worn daily forever — platinum if the budget allows, 14K otherwise. Both hold stones securely for decades.
• Wedding band — match the engagement ring's metal so they wear evenly. Two different hardnesses side by side will scratch each other.
• Tennis bracelet — 14K. It takes more contact than any other piece of jewelry.
• Stud earrings and pendants — any of the three. These see little friction, so 18K is a genuine option.
• Pearl settings — the metal matters less than the finish. Yellow gold warms a pearl's overtones; white gold and platinum keep the look cool and contemporary.

More on the ring itself in how much should an engagement ring cost, and on the bracelet in how to buy a diamond tennis bracelet.

A note on allergies

If you react to jewelry, the culprit is usually nickel in the alloy. Platinum contains no nickel and very rarely causes a reaction, which is why it is often recommended for sensitive skin. Higher-karat gold contains less alloy overall, and so less of whatever is causing the problem.

If you have a known metal allergy, say so before you order — it is a straightforward thing to work around at the bench, and a difficult one to fix afterward.

How we work

Every piece we make is solid 14K or 18K gold or platinum — hallmarked, never plated base metal. Most designs are available across metals; if you want a piece in a metal you do not see listed, ask. Reach us at sales@isaacwestman.com or 1-347-389-0766.

Read the 4Cs of diamonds before choosing a stone. Browse engagement rings and diamond jewelry.

Elegantly modern. Forever classic.

ISAAC WESTMAN® · New York · Founded 1982